Thursday, January 26, 2012

Bangkok in the Rain



Sitting in the Hua Lamphong Railway Station in Bangkok. Two days in Bangkok shattered my mind's composure - heat, smog/pollution, language, and my inability to navigate the streets on foot led me to the decision to buy a train ticket to Chiang Mai. The motor traffic is not like anything I have seen - scooters equal the number of cars, and I have to be acutely aware of my surroundings to avoid being hit. Many of the streets do not have sidewalks, and the one's which do are so jarring and in your face that it all seems like a twisted pedestrian nightmare. Adding to the cacophony is the occasional presence of touts. One approached me today as I walked the horridly hot and sticky Sukhimvit Rd. After asking if I needed a taxi, he wanted to know if I wanted to visit a tailor shop. I smiled and told him I was just wandering around and did not need a ride. He knew the game was up and he graciously relented his attack.

Having no luck finding a hotel in the morning, I decided to jump into a cab and told him to drive to Lumphini Park. On the Bangkok map it is the largest area of green space, and I needed to get away from the noise and fumes. The 15 minute ride cost only $1.75, and the first thing I saw was a large statue of a military hero, surrounded by a round about of concrete, with a MRT subway station adjacent. I walked by and saw the gate to the park, and within a few minutes the noise and stink subsided and I was surrounded by lush green and wide pedestrian-only pathways. I began to feel better, although the weight of my full pack made it difficult to enjoy the slow pace of my sauntering. I found a bench in the shade and stretched my legs out after pouring water over my head. My mood began to improve and after an hour of reflection decided to take the subway to Hua Lumphong Station and purchase the ticket to Chiang Mai. After departing the subway I was pleased to discover a connection tunnel to the train station. After walking about lost for a bit, I found the information desk and decided to buy a 2nd class sleeper ticket on the 18:10 train, cost being 780 baht ($25.00).

After buying the ticket at noon, I had 6 hours to spend, so I decided take the subway back to Lumphini Park and wander around a bit more. After 45 minutes a rain storm blew into the city, cooling the air. I found a group of stone tables with large canvas overhangs, so I sat at the table as the rain fell heavily. A Chinese family on holiday were at the table next to mine, and for 40 minutes we stood watching the rain and lightning. After the skies cleared I walked to the floating island marveling at how beautiful the park is.

Now it is almost 5:00 pm and the air in the station is cool enough for me to need a jacket. I am trying to adjust to my new mode of living on the road, all of my belongings stuffed into a pack at my feet.